Your FAQs answered by Repair Care

On this page, Repair Care provides answers to the most frequently asked questions for the use and application of our products. Should you not find the answer to your question here, do not hesitate to reach out to us via our contact page and we will try and get back to you as soon as possible.

How much does a repair cost?

The cost of repairs is significantly lower than replacement. The exact cost depends on several factors and our Excel spreadsheet gives a good indication of how to estimate prices. For complete assurance, our Joinery Inspection Survey provides a detailed report and accurate estimation of all costs involved in a project.

How long do repairs last?

With the correct preparation and application, DRY FLEX® repairs will last for the lifetime of the substrate. The repairs will also significantly extend redecoration cycles.

Are the products guaranteed?

Yes, our products are guaranteed for 10 years, subject to conditions.

Is special training needed?

A range of training options is available. Our short, cost effective training courses show the easiest ways to use the system and ensure that you get the best performance from it. A training DVD is also available.

Are there any test results from known independent research institutes?

Yes, since 1995 TNO in Delft (The Netherlands) has developed a research program based on practical research and evaluation to test the durability of the products used to repair windows and windowframes.
All products from Repair Care have been tested according to the TNO method. In addition, Repair Care itself has been testing with its own test station in the Austrian Alps for more than 20 years.
In Europe, the test institutes have further agreed that the test standards are mutually recognized.

I have a window with wood rot; What should I do?

Consult a painting company or maintenance company to have it inspected whether the window needs to be replaced, or whether it is possible to carry out repairs or partial replacement. 95% of the time it is possible. It is cheaper than replacing but also the durability of your window will increase significantly.

Can you give me the name of a local recommended contractor?

Please contact us for details of a local trained specialist or find our overview here.

Do you have to remove all the rot?

All decay must be removed prior to application for the system to work properly. The moisture content of the remaining wood must be below 18%. A Repair Care Wood Condition Meter is available to check the moisture content.

How soon can you paint the repair?

As soon as the DRY FLEX® is fully cured, it can be sanded and then painted or stained. The exact curing time of DRY FLEX® depends on the size of repair, application temperature and humidity and the curing time stated on the products is for guidance only.

Can the resin be painted or stained?

Yes, most paints and stains can be used over DRY FLEX®.

Can you nail or screw the resin?

Yes, you can. We recommend drilling a pilot hole first, in the same way you would with timber.

Can you use the system in the bad weather?

DRY FLEX® should be applied in dry weather and above freezing point. (above 10 degrees for DRY FLEX® 16).

Are the products guaranteed?

Yes, our products are guaranteed for 10 years, subject to conditions.

What tools do I need to do the work?

Details can be found on each product page.

What size repairs can I do?

DRY FLEX® 16 can be used up to 50mm deep in temperatures of 10-35°C. DRY FLEX® 4 can be used up to 20mm deep during warm weather (10 – 35°C) and 50mm in depth during colder weather (0-10°C). DRY FLEX® 1 is suitable for repairs up to 10mm deep. There should always be a minimum depth of 5mm to ensure full flexibility in the cured repair.

Can I use DRY FLEX® on listed or historic buildings?

The DRY FLEX® system has been used extensively on many historic buildings. Please ask your local conservation officer to contact us if there are any queries.

Can I use DRY SEAL™ MP on metal windows frames?

Yes. Please see the guidance notes on the product data sheet.

Can I use DRY SEAL™ MP around my shower/toilet?

No, it is not suitable for this type of application.

How can I remove smears of dried DRY SEAL™ MP from glass?

DRY SEAL™ MP should be applied carefully, without over filling the rebate. Excess is best removed from the glass with a sharp blade when it is cured.

DRY SEAL™ MP is brilliant white – can I leave it unpainted?

DRY SEAL™ MP has UV resistance so can be left unpainted but painting will help protect against surface pollution.

What is the best technique for getting a smooth finish with DRY SEAL™ MP?

Please refer to the guidance notes and instruction video on the product page.

Are the products safe to use?

Epoxy resin products are classified as skin irritants. Avoid skin contact by wearing Nitrile gloves. When appropriate wear eye protection. Full details are available on the product data sheets.

How ‘green’ is DRY FLEX®?

Our system repairs only the affected area rather than the whole component so less material is used, saving on disposal, raw materials and transport.

Why is my DRY FLEX® not curing in the time stated on the tube?

The exact curing time depends on the size of repair, application temperature and humidity and the curing time stated on the tubes is for guidance only.

What should I do if my wood surface is too wet?

Let it dry naturally. If you force the drying process, only the surface will dry for a short time and the remaining moisture will be pushed further into the wood. However, this moisture will want to get out as quickly as possible and will soon reach the surface again.


What is the minimum layer thickness for a paste repair?

A minimum layer thickness of 5 mm is required for repairs with DRY FLEX® 1, 4, 16 and IN and BIO FLEX® ALLROUND EN COOL.

What does the curing time of the pastes depend on?

The curing of DRY FLEX® and BIO FLEX® is, due to its character (chemical curing), dependent on mass and (environmental) temperature. A larger layer thickness (more mass) or a higher temperature means a faster curing. A smaller layer thickness (less mass) or a lower temperature means a slower curing

Does the repair need to be painted?

Under the influence of sunlight (UV), epoxy will darken in time and a crackle effect may appear in the top layer. In order to ensure a durable repair, it is therefore necessary to paint the repair.

Why do I need to sand the repair?

During the curing of epoxy, a waxy layer that feels greasy, the so-called amine layer, forms on the outside. This amine layer does not allow good adhesion and drying of the paint system or filler (DRY FLEX® SF). The amine layer can be easily removed by sanding the top layer.

Why are nitrile gloves recommended?          

We recommend wearing protective gloves to avoid skin contact with epoxy. Nitrile gloves are ideally suited for this purpose. Latex, vinyl, painting gloves etc. do not provide sufficient protection.

Can DRY FLEX® SF be used without milling? 

Yes, DRY FLEX® SF is a filler and can be used for natural cracks and small defects (< 6mm) in new and unpainted wood. Any raised wood fibres on the contact surface can be removed by sanding.

Do the empty tubes belong in residual waste or in small chemical waste?  

The cylinders must be scrape empty to belong to normal waste. The nozzle, however, always contains a small amount of unmixed product and must therefore be cut off and disposed of with small chemical waste.

Is it recommended to repair rotating parts?

Rotating parts such as windows and doors do not necessarily have to be replaced when damaged. As long as the damage is non-constructive (i.e. not at the joints), they can be repaired perfectly.

Why should I use a primer (DRY FIX®)?

When using repair resin, a good adhesion must be created between resin and wood, because the resin is too firm to penetrate the substrate properly. In order to make a solid connection with the wooden substrate, a (liquid) epoxy adhesive primer is applied first, which will form a connection with the epoxy resin to be applied later

How does repair care test their products?

Since 1995 TNO in Delft has developed a research programme based on practical research and evaluation to test the shelf life and durability of the products used to repair windows and frames. All Repair Care products are tested in our own laboratory according to the TNO method. Repair Care also tests for over 20 years with its own test station in the Austrian Alps. All products are now KOMO certified and are regularly tested by SHR. Various tests are also performed by foreign research centres (IFT and TÜV).

The epoxy is cracking. How is this possible?

To determine how the epoxy has started to crack, several things are important.

– Has the mixing been carried out properly and was the mixing ratio correct?

– Does the repair contain a minimum layer thickness of 5 mm everywhere (also at the edges)?

– Is the repair evenly cured without external heat sources?

– Is the repair properly built up (without air inclusion)?

If in doubt, always consult one of our specialists.

Sometimes you can see the marks of the paste under the paint after a while, while everything was completely smooth before painting.

This has to do with the swelling and shrinking behaviour of the wood, which the paste cannot imitate. If the wood has been repaired properly, this will not result in damage, but is more of an aesthetic problem.

Do I need to take any special safety precautions when sanding cured epoxy?

The epoxy is fully cured at the time of sanding. This means nitrile gloves are no longer required. The same safety precautions apply as for normal wood sanding, so make sure to use a good dust extractor.

Why do we recommend a white plastic mixing tray?

No epoxy bonds on our plastic mixing tray. The white colour also makes it easier to check our mixing colour control system.

Any questions? Contact us!